Tandayapa: 22 Species of Hummers

Friday, April 9, 2010
Tandayapa, Ecuador

Tandayapa might be one of the places on earth approaching birder heaven. The central focus is the 22 species of hummingbirds spending their day at feeders distributed around a central commons area which also serves as an al fresco dining room.

We arrived the previous night in time for a well-prepared multi-course dinner -- something we would get used to in Ecuador -- and our introduction to many of the living jewels this region had to offer. All around the dining room/commons area were hummingbird feeders and, on every feeder, several hummingbirds, often several different species.

We had dinner surrounded by hummingbirds getting their last "licks" in before dark. As they slowly disappeared, we did as well, going up to our room for the night.

The following morning we awoke early and had breakfast with the hummingbirds at the feeders, as well as a Crimson-rumped Toucanet, Red-headed Barbet, and several types of Tanagers at the banana feeders a short distance downhill from the area. To be honest, we probably could have spent the day just sitting there. But there was more birding to do.

After breakfast we had some productive birding around the commons area. Of the birds in the area we saw what we thought to be two late birds: Blackburnian Warbler and Tropical Parula. We also had a couple of Woodcreepers and a Brown-capped Vireo.

While we were birding we heard a loud hummingbird "alarm call". Apparently hummingbirds have a "sentry" that keeps watch. When the alarm was called, the feeders emptied immediately. The cause: a Semicollared Hawk perched nearby. This is a hawk that eats hummingbirds (among other things). As it sat there, several hummingbirds perched nearby, keeping guard. I'm not quite sure what their little hummingbird minds were thinking. But the idea of such a system in the world of hummers was certainly something to think about.

I know the photo is a bit blurry. But it's a great illustration, with the hawk in the center and one of the brave hummingbirds on a nearby branch up in the left hand corner of the photo.

As usual, the Tanagers at the banana feeders were most impressive birds. We had spectacular views of Golden, Metallic-green, and Beryl-spangled Tanagers, and Northern Blue-winged Mountain Tanager.

We stayed in this area for the morning. After lunch we took a short trail leading to a forest overlook. It was a less birdy spot, but still offered us a fabulous bird: a Golden-headed Quetzal. After sitting at the end of the trail for a while, we returned to our room to pack up for our trip to Milpe. Before leaving we spent a bit more time at the feeders. It was a good thing too, since a new hummer came in during that time: a Violet-tailed Sylph -- one of my mainland target birds.

Now, I'm not sure how I go about choosing my target birds. Sometimes it's by looks, other times it's by interest. But the Sylph is a pretty spectacular bird, with its long, impressive tail with iridescent tail feathers. The Violet-tailed has a purple tail accented by bright azure blue "accent" marks. I've borrowed the following photo from fedbybirds.com, since ours seems to have disappeared in the black hole of cyberspace.

Of course, anyone who's a birder knows photos don't do these birds justice. It's only in person that we can appreciate how incredible nature's reality can be.

One of the things I love about birding (and nature, in general) is what you can learn by observing. One observation involved a White-sided Flowerpiercer. Flowerpiercers "cheat" flowers by nipping open their bottoms to access the nectar, not offering pollination in exchange for the food. While watching the Flowerpiercer work, I noticed it spending time among Impatiens planted in the area. I noticed the Impatiens had developed an appendage off the bottom, a tube that seemed like it was designed for just this purpose.

(I've used a photo of a similar species from desireableplants.com.) Jorge told us the species is originally from New Zealand, so I'm not sure there's a co-evolution here. But it certainly seems like a good match of flower and bird, although I'm still not sure what benefit the flower gains from allowing the Flowerpiercer such access.

We left Tandayapa taking the "easier" trail down. I don't think I really saw much of a difference. But I know seeing 22 species of hummingbirds in less than 24 hours will definitely leave its impact.

The list:
Cattle Egret
Semicollared Hawk
Band-tailed Pigeon
Red-billed Parrot
White-whiskered Hermit
White-necked Jacobin
Brown Violetear
Green Violetear
Sparkling Violetear
Green Thorntail
Western Emerald
Green-crowned Woodnymph
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird
Andean Emerald
Purple-bibbed Whitetip
Empress Brilliant
Green-crowned Brilliant
Brown Inca
Buff-tailed Coronet
Booted Racket-tail
Violet-tailed Sylph
Purple-throated Woodstar
White-bellied Woodstar
Golden-headed Quetzal
Red-headed Barbet
Crimson-rumped Toucanet
Strong-billed Woodcreeper
Montane Woodcreeper
Uniform Antshrike
White-tailed Tyrannulet
Golden-crowned Flycatcher
Brown-capped Vireo
Swainson's Thrush
Blue-and-white Swallow
Tropical Parula
Blackburnian Warbler
Slate-throated Whitestart
Three-striped Warbler
Bananaquit
White-sided Flowerpiercer
Thick-billed Euphonia
Orange-bellied Euphonia
Golden Tanager
Golden-naped Tanager
Metallic-green Tanager
Beryl-spangled Tanager
Northern Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager
Blue-gray Tanager
Palm Tanager
Lemon-rumped Tanager
White-winged Tanager
White-winged Brush-Finch
Rufous-collared Sparrow

Driving the Nono-Mindo Road to Tandayapa

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Nono-Mindo Road to Tandayapa

TTh

Mucho muy early start today. We woke at 4:30 am, had breakfast at 5 and hit the road around 6 a.m. A milder bout with vertigo gave us a slight delay on our start; but, once again, the dizziness cleared up as the day progressed.

We joined Jorge Cruz, owner of the three San Jorge properties (Quito, Tandayapa and Milpe) for a day-long birding trek, and what a trek it was, with fortuitous and fruitful stops, turning a 32 km. trip along the Nono-Mindo road into a full day on the road.

Quite honestly, we saw so many species of birds today I can't even remember back to the early stops to list them. The day was filled with continuous pull-offs yielding, at times, dozens of species. In fact, there was one stop where we kept calling out bird names/descriptions nonstop, each of us seeing different birds at the same time.

We stopped at a spot where Jorge knew there was a pair of Burrowing Owls. Sure enough, he was able to find them in the scope, where Avi digiscoped a few shots. Then he and Avi went hiking down to where the burrow was and got some excellent photos of one of the owls perched on a low branch. (As an owl fan, finding one is always a highlight of my day.)

As we drove we descended in altitude. As we descended in altitude, the habitat became more and more verdant, reminding us of the rainforests of Panama.

We stopped for a box lunch at a stream that ran in tandem to the road. Rather than watching birds, we were amused by a cow that had wandered by and decided to graze on grass growing on small “islands” in the middle of the stream.

Possibly the most bizarre sighting today was a Sword-billed Hummingbird, with its incredibly oversized bill which it uses to access the nectar in Trumpet Flowers. A great example of adaptation.

Our final destination today: Tandayapa Lodge, one of Hosteria San Jorge's sister lodges located in the world famous Tandayapa Valley, well-known by birders for its variety of hummingbirds. The lodge is located 100 meters up from the road, perched on the side of a mountain. This facility is not a “drive-up” – it's a “hike up” with a sometimes steep switchback trail. The hike is about 20 minutes and finishes at the communal area with dining table and about a dozen hummingbird feeders – all in constant use by the 22 species of hummers in that region.

Upon our arrival lemonade and popcorn (something we see with each dinner) were offered and gratefully accepted. We sat and watched the myriad of hummingbirds at the numerous feeders around the outdoor dining area. Sadly, it was late and getting dark. But I look forward to breakfasting with these little jewels tomorrow morning.

The list:

Band-tailed Pigeon

Plumbeous Pigeon

Eared Dove

White-capped Parrot

Burrowing Owl

Green Violetear

Sparkling Violetear

Rufous-tailed Hummingbird

Andean Emerald

Speckled Hummingbird

Empress Brilliant

Green-crowned Brilliant

Fawn-breasted Brilliant

Brown Inca

Collared Inca

Sword-billed Hummingbird

Buff-tailed Coronet

Booted Racket-tail

Long-tailed Sylph

Purple-throated Woodstar

Red-headed Barbet

Azara's Spintail

Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner

Uniform Treehunter

White-crested Elaenia

Sierran Elaenia

White-banded Tyrannulet

White-tailed Tyrannulet

Smoke-colored Pewee

Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant

Golden-crowned Flycatcher

Tropical Kingbird

Barred Becard

Turquoise Jay

Great Thrush

Brown-bellied Swallow

Blue-and-white Swallow

Plain-tailed Wren

Blackburnian Warbler

Slate-throated Whitestart

Spectacled Whitestart

Black-crested Warbler

Masked Flowerpiercer

Black Flowerpiercer

White-sided Flowerpiercer

Orange-bellied Euphonia

Golden Tanager

Silver-throated Tanager

Flame-faced Tanager

Golden-naped Tanager

Beryl-spangled Tanager

Black-capped Tanager

Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager

Northern Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager

Blue-gray Tanager

Blue-capped Tanager

Blue-and-Yellow Tanager

Flame-crested Tanager

Black-winged Saltator

Southern-Yellow Grosbeak

Rufous-naped Brush-Finch

Rufous-collared Sparrow

Hooded Siskin

Ecuador -- Day 1 Otavalo Market

Wed., April 7
Otavalo

Waking up with severe vertigo and nausea is not a good thing. In other words, the start to my day was pretty tenuous, especially since we didn't know if it had to do with my inner ear or the altitude. Long story made short, a good combination of Meclazine (Bonine), Tylenol Cold, the Epply Maneuver, and a cup of Mate de Coca worked together to give increasing relief throughout the day.

In spite of everything spinning, we were still able to open the window to the chilly Andes air and identify Rufous-collard Sparrows (singing everywhere), Blue and Yellow Tanager, and Great Thrush. Our first hummingbird was gigantic – a Sparkling Violetear.

Down at the main building – our room is in a building about 200-300 feet higher – we added a Black-tailed Trainbearer. The derivation of its name can be found in its overlong tail that extends about twice the length of its body. We saw a few other birds but weren't in actual “birding mode”, so we were without our guide. Additionally, we were being called into breakfast.

Breakfast was lovely, with fresh fruit, watermelon nectar, and eggs made to order. I also had my very first cup of mate de coca. By the time breakfast was over I was feeling a bit more up to facing the day.

Jorge Cruz, the owner of San Jorge Ecolodge was our guide for the day and we traveled with a married couple from England. The 90 km to Otavalo took about two and a half hours, not unexpected considering we were driving around mountains and behind trucks.

Along the way we stopped at a town that specialized in wonderful baked biscochos (bicuits) and homemade string cheese. (Kissing that low carb regimen goodbye for the next couple of weeks, I guess).

We also stopped at one of the guided “Mitad del Mundo” or “Middle of the World” locations. For one dollar each we were given a fascinating lecture on the equator, its location, seeing stars here from both hemispheres, true global orientation, and why Ecuador is THE place named for the equator. Hint: it's the only place on the equator with fixed reference points: the mountains.

On to Otavalo and the market.

Basically, we went with a shopping list. Basically, we came home with great gifts, but virtually nothing that was on the original list. I'm not posting precisely what we got because the gifts have yet to be given. Not being the main market day, the market was fairly quiet, though bargaining was tough.

As for the charango, we found out that any of the decent charangos, at least the ones in Otavalo, are imported from Bolivia and are priced accordingly. Avi decided to forgo purchasing one here and will be ordering from charangomall.com.

On the way back from Otavalo we stopped at a river/spring fed lake with adorable cabins. I assume its mostly for weekending Ecuadorians. It was complete with boats, jetskis, playground, miniature golf, and restaurant. We had “cafesitos” while adding Andean Coot, Andean Ruddy Duck, and Green-tailed Trainbearer to our day list.

At dinner we were told to pack a bag for two nights. It seems our itnerary for the next two days include a night at Tandayapa (hummingbird heaven) and Milpe. So, we'll probably only have one more night of direct internet access (Saturday night) before leaving for our week in the Galapagos.

For now, Internet is slow. Photos will be added later, or at least references to where they can be found.

Bird list (in no particular order)

Blue and Yellow Tanager
Great Thrush
Rufous-collared Sparrow
Sparkling Violetear
Black-tailed Trainbearer
Cattle Egret
Green-tailed Trainbearer
Andean Coot
Andean Ruddy Duck

Anticipating Ecuador

A new day, a new blog. I'm switching over from livejournal to blogspot, since its ability to post photos directly makes it a better choice for someone like me. So....... 


It's hard to believe our trip to Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands is just about here. After years of dreaming, months of planning, and weeks of anticipation, we're now looking at what to take and in which suitcase each item should go.

We're trying to pack as lightly as possible, since we'll be moving around at least three times over the course of the trip. If possible, I'd like to leave the "larger" suitcase at our Quito accommodation and only take the smaller one with us when moving around. We'll see if that's possible, since I'd still like to wear something other than "birding gear" for dinner.

On the mainland, our base of operation will be the San Jorge Ecolodge, about 20 minutes from the Quito Airport on the side of the Pichincha Volcano. Their alternate website can be found here and photos of the lodge, its sister lodges (we'll be visiting Milpe and Tandayapa), and its creatures are here.

We're spending our first day shopping at the Otavalo market. We purposely added a day to the trip for this purpose. At first we thought we were just going to check out what things Ecuador has to offer and buy the requisite gifts. But then we spotted a photo of someone selling Charangos there and are now on a quest to find a beginner's instrument for Avi. He's been fascinated by the Charango since we lived in Guadalajara and heard them being played at the local Pena (a folkloric coffeehouse). Hopefully there's more than just tourist souvenir versions of it.

We've heard rumors that one can see over 300 species of birds in a few days birding around the highlands. We'll see.

Then there's the preparations for the trip to the Galapagos. We've purchased a few dedicated items, including a soft waterproof camera case, so we can take underwater shots during our snorkeling expeditions. Not sure how good it is. But for under $40, if we get some decent shots it was a bargain, since the hard cases cost over $200.

So, stay tuned for trip report journaling. Photos will most likely be archived at our Picasaweb site, short updates on Facebook, and the full journal, including bird lists, here (Though I'm debating starting a blogspot birding page and moving everything there -- we shall see).

Wish us well!